Colette Candela is the Creative Director at Maison Lejaby. After working two years in made-to-measure at Scandale, Colette joined the company as a designer and rose steadily through its ranks. She has spent much of her professional life at Maison Lejaby and considers herself lucky to have witnessed the remarkable evolution of lingerie at the company. A few milestones:
 
 In 1977, the first braid of Leavers lace was used in the cleavage of a bra in the Mandarine. Up until that moment, bra cleavage was cut width-wise with Valenciennes lace at the edge, a type of bobbin lace made on a lace pillow that originated in Valenciennes, France, in the 1700’s.
 
In 1992, the Amance was the first geometric model in jersey cotton decorated with a braid of braces in guipure and softened by a large embroidered simple arch festoon.

In 1995, the Nuage was launched, the predecessor of all invisible bras currently on the market. To date, Maison Lejaby has sold 12 million Nuage bras.
 
In 2008, the Crystal became the bestseller that keeps on selling – a very beautiful shape with many imitators on the market.
 
We recently caught up with Colette to get her perspective on the illustrious Maison Lejaby.
 

Photo : Maison Lejaby Couture

LF: What are the hallmarks of Maison Lejaby?
 
Colette: Maison Lejaby is the oldest French corsetry maker in the country. At its inception in 1884 it made undergarments. In 1930, it became Lebaby, just a few years after the first bra came on the market.

French savoir-faire characterizes the Maison Lejaby collection. It is 100% created in our workshop near Lyon with precious fabrics - the most beautiful Calais laces, St. Gall embroideries, silks from Lyon – and by our highly-skilled and specialized “corsetieres” who work with extraordinary precision, putting their hearts into every stitch.

LF: How would you describe the profile of the woman who wears Maison Lejaby?

Colette: The profile of the Maison Lejaby buyer depends on the collection. The Couture collection is usually worn by chic women who love pleasure and French luxury. They recognize and look for high quality luxury fabrics like silk and can usually wear different styles. Their only demand is to have the perfect fit. No mistakes are allowed in that arena.

Women who buy the Elixir line are full-busted, refined, and self-possessed. They don’t hide, minimize, or flatten their busts. They like to feel support without that support being self-evident. 
Effortless French chicness characterizes the woman who wears our Premium collection. She’s a bit of an enchantress but also aware of price points.

Photo : Maison Lejaby Elixir

LF: What are the most significant differences between the lingerie industry in France/Europe and the United States?

Colette: French women only buy around two bras per year. That said, they buy very nice, high-quality sets and prefer aesthetics touches like transparent lace. The American woman buys an average of four bras a year, but prefers classic simple sets with plain padded cups.

LF: In your many years working for Maison Lejaby, what are the most striking changes you’ve noticed in the lingerie industry? Additionally, how do you see the market changing in years to come?

Colette: Many things have evolved. When I started working, women didn’t care about being squeezed into their bras and tolerated a lot of pressure on their bodies. These days, they want more comfort and tolerate roughly half the amount of pressure.

Women also prefer a rounder breast, but I think what has changed most significantly is sizing: In the past, the basic size was 85B (32 B). The D cup was an exception and only produced for certain markets. Now, the average is 90C (34C) and we produce up to G cup. It’s possible that this size will get even larger over time. These days young women have bigger breasts and larger waists, smaller thighs, and small “love handles” on their hips. In fact, they have become more androgynous, but with much more voluminous breasts. It’s not uncommon to see young teens wearing 90D (34C) cup bras or even higher.
 
LF: How would you define the spirit of French couture?
 
Colette: I’d characterize the spirit of French couture as a convergence of audacious design that dares to be different, employing the most beautiful French or European fabrics, with exceptional finishings, bold and unique styles, the perfect fit, and bust-enhancing cuts.